3 Piece Trips: Mississippi Delta Sampler

(Photo) View of the Greenville Cypress Preserve.

Piece 1: Greenville Cypress Preserve. In the 1930s, the Greenville MS Garden Club began efforts to save a unique natural area from planned urban development and, in 1940, purchased the site for a little over $3,000 and created the Greenville Cypress Preserve.

Located at the corner of Highway 82 West and Cypress Lane in Greenville, the preserve is a beautiful 16-acre property that features a set of easy walking trails leading through ancient cypress and tupelo tree swamps. The trails range in distance from 1/4 to 1/2 mile, and the longer outer trail includes educational signage that corresponds to an audio tour available by smart phone.

Board walk sections of the trails allow visitors to move across and better experience wetland areas, and a wooden observation deck near the outer trail’s halfway point provides a view of the preserve’s tallest bald cypress tree.

The Greenville Cypress Preserve (open year-round with no entrance fee) was maintained by the founding garden club for over 60 years and is now under the care of the Greenville Cypress Preserve Trust, a 501(c)(3) nonprofit organization dedicated to the development and maintenance of the property.

This sanctuary environment in the heart of the Mississippi Delta supports a variety of plant and animal life, and is a wonderful spot for birdwatching.

Entance to the Delta Blues Museum

Piece 2: Delta Blues Museum. Located at #1 Blues Alley Lane in Clarksdale MS is the Delta Blues Museum (DBM).

Established in 1979, the museum is devoted to the celebration and preservation of a musical style that traces its origins to the Mississippi Delta. In 1999, the DBM was relocated to its current location in the historic (circa 1918) Clarksdale freight depot.

Delta Blues is characterized by finger-picked guitars and storytelling lyrics reflecting personal emotions and experiences. Artifacts on display at the DBM include many acoustic and electric guitars, colorful costumes, photographs, sheet music, folk art, and other memorabilia.

The DBM collection highlights many individuals and groups that have made significant contributions to the Delta Blues music genre, but gives special attention to influential artists such as Muddy Waters, John Lee Hooker, B. B. King, and Edward James “Son” House Jr.

One of the more interesting exhibits at the DBM is a re-creation of Muddy Waters’ childhood cabin, meticulously reconstructed to provide insight into his humble beginnings.

The museum also honors the legacy of Robert Johnson, a mythical and enigmatic figure whose haunting melodies and masterful guitar skills have inspired generations of blues and rock musicians. According to legend, Johnson sold his soul to Satan “at the crossroads” in exchange for his musical talent.

Entance to Doe’s Eat Place

Piece 3: Mississippi Tamales. The presence of tamales in Mississippi is an intriguing story of cultural fusion. Much has been written about the origin of the Mississippi Delta-style hot tamale, but the consensus seems to be that Mexican migrant workers introduced tamales to African-Americans, who then modified the recipe to fit their tastes and the availability of ingredients.

Delta hot tamales are smaller than traditional Mexican tamales, and the dough covering the spiced pork or beef filling is usually cornmeal (rather than masa), giving them a comparatively coarser texture. After being wrapped in a corn husk or parchment paper, Delta tamales are slow-simmered in broth (rather than steamed), which infuses them with a robust flavor.

The “tamale trail” is a roadmap of eateries offering an interpretation of the Delta tamale. Predominantly located along the western side of Mississippi, these “trail spots” range from rustic diners with plastic forks to more refined restaurants with cloth napkins and stainless flatware.

We tried Delta tamales at two different “trail spots.” The first was Doe’s Eat Place in Greenville MS. Founded in 1941 by Dominic “Doe” Signa and his wife, Mamie, Doe’s became known far and wide for its perfectly cooked steaks and spicy hot tamales, made following an old family recipe. Our bundle of tamales were delicious, and a perfect appetizer for our main course of large, flavorful broiled shrimp.

Next, we visited Abe’s Bar-B-Q in Clarksdale MS. Founded in 1924 by Abraham “Abe” Davis, this iconic restaurant has built a regional reputation for its smoked meats and seasoned beef tamales. We enjoyed a delicious lunch of Abe’s tamales with a side of tangy vinegar slaw, a cup of chili, and plenty of saltines.

Both of the “tamale trail” stops we made were unique experiences. The tamales tasted slightly different at Doe’s and Abe’s, and each place had its own distinctive ambiance. Hopefully, we will have the opportunity to visit other “trail spots” in the future.

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3PieceTripsBlog
My name is Jim McCrary, and I have enjoyed organizing simple 2-3 day trips with my wife, Becky, for many years. Typically, we try to identify three things to experience as part of each trip…hence the name of the blog “3 Piece Trips”. This blog is a way of documenting our little excursions, and to share them with others who might find them interesting.
February 13, 2025

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